It’s that time of year again, at least for those of us who don’t drive our Porsches year round. It’s time to start thinking about putting your Porsche away for a long winter nap. This post won’t be relative for those of you who are fortunate enough to live in a climate that allows you to drive your Porsche year round, brave enough to put winter tires on and and drive your Porsche through the winter, or for those of you that own a Cayenne. For the rest of you read on.
Each year I put together a list of the steps taken to winterize my Porsche(s). As my cars are all oil air cooled, I thought I would make it a point this year to include steps for those of you with water pumpers (why discriminate). It seems that I keep adding a new step every year, so if I missed something below that you include in your winterization process, please let me know by commenting at the end of this post.
The longer version is below with a detailed explanation of each step. However, for those of you in a hurry, here’s the short version:
Set the date.
Wash and clean, inside and out.
Gas it up and include a fuel additive like STA-BIL.
Fill your tires to the maximum pressure allowed by your tire; or, use a set of tire cradles that are shaped to the tire and help to prevent flat spots without the need to over inflate.
For those of you pumping more water than oil through the pipes, be sure the check and top off your anti-freeze.
Put the car in gear or park and don’t apply the parking brake.
You might consider placing some type of reusable desiccant in the car, like this Pelican 1500D Peli Desiccant Silica Gel 2 if your garage is not climate controlled.
Cover it.
Call your insurance company and reduce all your coverages to minimum and remove the liability insurance (in some states this can save you as much as $100 per month.
Play racing games, drive simulators and wait for the snow to melt and the salt to get washed away so you can prepare to drive your Porsche again in the Spring.
Preparing your Porsche for Winter Storage
1. Set the date: Living in New England, I’m never sure what the weather is going to be from one minute to the next. As fall gets closer to winter I pay closer and closer attention to the weather. I’m obsessed with keeping my cars clean and rust free and that’s hard to do with the amount of salt placed on the road during a typical New England winter. So, rather than taking any chances, I watch the weather and make sure to have my car prepped and ready before the first snow flies.
2. Clean it inside and out: The cleaner the car is when you put it away, the better it will look every time you check in on it. I usually do a complete wash and a put a quick coat of wax on just for that added protection. Don’t forget the wheels. The last thing you want to do is leave brake dust on your rims to sit and eat at the finish for the winter.
3. Gas it up: Make sure you have as full a tank as possible. I make it a point to gas up at the station closest to my garage right before I put away my car. With a full tank you help to keep out any unwanted condensation or water build up that can happen when a car sits all winter long.
3a. Use a fuel additive: I like Gold Eagle 22214 STA-BIL Fuel Stabilizer. 32 oz.. Read the directions and use the proper amount for your tank size. The key with any fuel additive is to put it in prior to filling the tank and then to make sure you drive for a few miles to get the additive throughout the entire fuel system.
4. Tire Pressure: If you’re not going to put your car up on jack-stand (which I don’t recommend), the next best thing is to get a good amount of tire pressure in each tire. Make sure you don’t over inflate past the manufacturers recommend capacity, but you should go over the recommend driving pressure. In general, tires can lose 1 psi per month under normal conditions and an addition 1 psi per ever 10 degree (Fahrenheit) drop in temp. As a general rule of thumb, I put 50lbs of pressure in each tire. You have to remember to do this when the tires are cold or you won’t get an accurate reading and you may end up with flat spots. There is nothing worse then taking your Porsche out for the first time in the spring and having damaged tires due to flat spots from storage. Properly inflated tires will avoid this.
Another option to consider is to use some type of tire cradle. Basically, this is a shaped piece of plastic or hard foam that “cradles” your tire and will keep them from developing those dreaded flat spots. One such product to consider are Flat Stoppers from Brute Industries. (the makers of RaceRamps.)
5. Check and top off the anti-freeze: With the introduction of the Porsche 996, Porsche gave us the first production, water cooled motor in a 911. Each new Porsche model since has continued this water pumping tradition. Regardless if your Porsche is stored indoors or out (you never know if your indoor space may loose power) it is a good idea to to check and top off all your fluids, paying special attention to your engine coolant/anti-freeze. Once topped off, be sure to run the car for a few minutes to ensure that fluids are properly circulated throughout the engine block. The last thing you want is to come back in the spring and find your beloved Porsche weeping green tears into a puddle around the tires.
6. Battery Maintenance: Some people like to take the battery out of their cars or at least disconnect them. Not me. I like to use some form of SuperSmart Battery Tender to make sure my battery is always fresh and I’m ready to go. It would be a shame to get a nice Spring day, go to start the car and find you have a dead battery (not to mention, it can get expensive replacing your battery every year). Let’s face it, the electronics in a modern Porsche tend to eat up a battery pretty easily if the car isn’t used frequently. So, either disconnect it or put on some type of SuperSmart Battery Tender. What you definitely want to avoid is starting your Porsche and letting it “warm-up” or run to charge the battery. This simply allows condensation to develop or collect in your motor (you won’t get it hot enough to burn it off) and can possibly cause long-term damage. Look in your manual, you will see this is not recommended. A few additional things to remember if you do decide to disconnect the battery: 1. you will need to have your radio code handy in the spring to get your system functioning again. 2. If your Porsche is equipped with an electronic hood latch, be sure not to close the hood all the way. If you do, you will need to jump the switch through the fuse box which is entirely all to annoying when you simply want to drive your baby again. A simple way to avoid this is to place a small piece of foam padding under the latch preventing it from engaging.
7. No Parking Brake: I’ve always just left my car(s) in gear of in park and left the parking brake off. Different people say different things about this step, but I’ve always felt, why risk it? Why risk having the parking brake freeze or bind over months of storage. I’ve heard others say that long term use of the brake system can stretch the cable and weaken the system. If you are worried about your Porsche going for a drive without you behind the wheel, a simple and inexpensive Wheel Chock works very well. If you don’t want to spend the money on something application specific, grab a piece of wood from the pile and snug it under a tire. This will work just as well.
8. Keep it dry: Moisture is your enemy during long term storage. The best way to win over the wet is with the use of simple dessicant packs. Personally, I like these Desiccant Silica Gel Packs from Pelican because they are inexpensive, self contained and more importantly, reusable. Three or four of these should be sufficient for most Porsche applications. At the end of the season simply place it in the oven until the color changes back indicating dry and you’re ready for the next season.
9. Cover it: Even if your car is in a nice heated garage, securely tucked away with the key hidden, I’ve always thought it a good idea to keep my cars covered. This way, you don’t have to worry about anyone or anything bumping into or crawling on or over you nice paint. I use a thick, padded, custom fitted cover from California Car Covers. If you do use a cover make sure it covers your exhaust pipes. If you don’t use a cover (or yours doesn’t cover the pipes), you might want to think of covering your pipes with something (those big 16 oz keg cups work great). The idea behind this is to keep out any rodents that might want to try and build a nest for the winter. You laugh, but I’ve seen it happen to friends cars and it can be very frustrating and expensive. If you’re looking for a cover and don’t want to spend the money on a custom one, Empire Covers offers Car Covers starting at $24.99!
10. Save some money: I know that many of you may not have access to winter storage and as a result, need to rent storage space from a local garage or self-storage area. A great way to help offset the cost of this storage area is to reduce your insurance coverages. Specifically, remove all the liability coverage (as you won’t be driving) and reduce your other coverages to the state required minimums. Depending no where you live and the type of coverage you have on your Porsche this could save you anywhere from $50 to $500 a year in insurance costs.
That’s it, youre Porsche is now ready for a rest and you can begin planning your drives for next spring. Remember, your Porsche will get lonely so be sure to visit often. One of the main reasons I purchased my Porsches was the look of the 911. It’s a work of art that gives me enjoyment every time I see. So, when I don’t get to drive over the winter, I sneak a peek into the garage at least once a week, just to check in.
Is there anything I missed? Do you have other steps in your winterization process that other readers may benefit from? If so, let us all know by commenting below.
As an owner of a less reliable older, higher mileage Porsche, I can list my top five most annoying aspects of roadside emergencies. They are as follows:
Discovering the air pump is broken when changing a flat tire
Discovering I don’t have the tools on hand to complete a repair
Discovering half the electrical system is either shorted out or otherwise in need of repairs
Not having spare clothes to work in the rain
(In addition to item number two) NOT ENOUGH LIGHT
While the burden falls on me to check supplies, be prepared and take care of preventative maintenance, there are always electrical gremlins that are impossible to predict or account for, so like most folks with a Porsche 924/944/928/964 etc., I have to devise a backup plan in case I’m stranded somewhere, day or night, rain or shine.
Before I Saw the Light…
My backup plan to date consists of a few emergency flares, a first-aid kit, and a 170-piece tool kit in the back hatch of the 944. In winter months, I carry a snowsuit and a blanket, too. I used to carry a 2,000,000 candlelight spotlight, as well. I saw this as an advantageous addition to my tools because it threw a lot of light and it allowed me to give people driving behind me with their brights on a taste of their own medicine (Please Note: This is so illegal it’s not funny, but it’s so incredibly entertaining that I’ll laugh anyways, and it’s still a very effective deterrent. PorschePurist.com does not in any way condone treating fellow drivers like this. Unless, of course, they deserve it). However, the spotlight was purchased from Wal-Mart, and its battery was useless after a year’s time and after two years it ceased to work at all! This left me up a familiar creek without a paddle any time I had to make nighttime repairs, especially now that my interior lights don’t work.
… But Now
This changed when I was introduced to the 12VSpotlight Rechargeable Flashlight. I admit I was very skeptical when I initially saw the device; the whole thing is no larger than my big toe, it has only one LED – I’ve been accustomed to a trusty 7-LED flashlight. Even so, I gave this thing a one-week trial.*
That was about six or seven weeks ago. I don’t know where my 7-LED flashlight is, and I don’t care! The 12VSpotlight packs tons of power in a tiny package! I was VERY happy to find that it’s about as bright as my old light, and where it lacks in luminescence it more than makes up for with portability and durability.
An Extended Trial
The first weekend I had it, the future Mrs. heard a cat crying outside her apartment late one night and I was so excited to have an excuse to play with and test the functionality of the Spotlight that I ran outside in search of the poor creature. Ten minutes later, I found myself precariously perched on a wavering wire fence, half climbing, half hanging from an oak tree in an effort to rescue a black and white cat that was stuck atop a branch some 15 feet above the ground. In spite of its darker colors, this animal was seen as bright as day, thanks to the Spotlight! There were several times when I lost my footing and had to drop the light to grab the tree trunk while coaxing the cat down. Any other flashlight would have fallen to the ground, but not the Spotlight, which comes with a handy lanyard, ensuring the Spotlight was always within my grasp.
We’ve since moved into a house together, and while I was still unfamiliar with the locations of light switches I oftentimes took the Spotlight around the house. I should also mention that in all these seven weeks, I’ve used it many times, and it is still on its first charge. My old LED light would have required four AAA batteries by now – which reminds me, this little guy doesn’t require batteries! Just plug it straight into your car’s cigarette lighter. Speaking of cars…
I was asked to write this from a Porsche enthusiast’s perspective, not some SPCA member! Strictly cars, from here on out!
Brilliance and Utilitarianism
Before my cigarette lighter ceased to work, I found the Spotlight was an excellent road-going companion. After the lighter conked out, the Spotlight’s performance wasn’t adversely perfected (obviously), but I became worried about being unable to charge it. Two months on one charge has since negated this opinion, though!
The Spotlight can be dangled through tricky spaces under the hood to diagnose oil leaks and examine the belts. 944 owners will also appreciate the fact that Spotlight’s brightness is strong enough to see the coolant level in all but the most hopelessly cloudy 944 coolant expansion tanks. The light is also small enough to examine the portal in the bell housing to find the mark on the crankshaft. The gritty, dirty work under the car is much brighter with the Spotlight. I found myself underneath the 944 more than a couple times, chomping on the Spotlight as if it were a Churchill-sized cigar, keeping both hands free to handle tools.
Porsche owners who are concerned that this would hog their only 12V outlet can breathe a sigh of relief – there’s a Spotlight adaptor that allows you to recharge your Spotlight alongside your cell phone/ GPS/ radar detector! Very handy!
Elegance and Convenience
Because I needed an excuse to drive my father’s 911, and not to leave owners of newer Porsches out of the fun, I borrowed the key’s to my father’s 997 C4S to test the Spotlight’s capabilities within the commanding confines of a newer 911. Newer 911s have a cigarette lighter near the gearshift and a power outlet in the center console storage area. The Spotlight outlet splitter fits in the console’s outlet and allows drivers to use another device besides the Spotlight, but it limits the amount of space left in the console – it’s small to begin with though, so this may not matter to most drivers. I can honestly say that the Spotlight is just as useful in a new 997 as it is in my 944.
In a darkened parking lot, 997 owners should know that I did not have to remain next to the car to shoo off hoodlums, thieves, infants or anyone else that could breathe on the car improperly. Thanks to the Spotlight, I was able to be as far as 40 feet away and still see the car, almost worry-free!
The Spotlight’s focused beam pierced the darkness my pitch-black basement. This shot was taken (sans flash ) from 20 feet away. The Spotlight doesn’t try to spread light around because it’s too busy doing a great job throwing light precisely where you need it.
Inside the car, the Spotlight is just as useful. I was able to open a bottle of Remy Martin Napoleon cognac with no guesswork, and filled the snifter without spilling a drop on the expensive leather interior. The wine test was not as seamless, but the Spotlight’s lanyard left both of my hands free to use the corkscrew and the red wine was opened without incident. I was again able to fill my glasses without incident; I even saw some of the rich, Italian vintage 2004 Reserva Sangiovese starting to drip from the bottle and was able to wipe it away with my silk handkerchief before things got ugly. The only complaint I can speak of is that the lanyard wrinkled my Armani shirt. Oh, and the Spotlight’s color – the Spotlight’s green metal casing clashed horribly with the 911’s stately black interior and refined white exterior. I’ve been informed that Spotlights are available in a variety of colors, so my father (along with other 911 owners) will be able to select a Spotlight with a color that compliments their 911’s colors. [Editor's note: You'll have to excuse Andrew's ranting regarding 911 owners. He's just jealous. ]
A Bright Addition to Any Tool Set!
As a Porsche owner, the Spotlight helped me when I worked past sunset or in confined spaces. It fits in places most flashlights won’t, so you can always get light where you need it. The battery life is unbelievable, and will provide plenty of light between charging times. It is the smallest tool in my arsenal and it is easily in my list of the top five most useful! My verdict: A worthy investment for any Porsche enthusiast!
[Editor's note: The makers of Spotlight are not a sponsor of PorschePurist, nor were we paid for this review. I asked Andrew to try out the light and give me his thoughts from the perspective of a Porsche owner, the review above is his answer to that question.]
Today’s post is compliments of frequent contributor Andrew Granieri. Andrew is a graduate from Miami University with a degree in Technical & Scientific Communications and a minor in Entrepreneurship. He has a strong passion for cars and is working hard as a private contractor and freelance writer so he can continue to support his (pseudo) extravagant enthusiast lifestyle. He currently drives a worn but strong 1986 Porsche 944 that his future wife has come to appreciate and adore.
It’s hard to imagine, but winter has finally come to a close and it’s time for those of us in the colder climates to start thinking about putting our Porsches back on the road. Personally, I’m only about two weeks away from my first drive and it might be sooner if there’s enough rain (to wash the salt off) between now and then.
When I first started this site it was named 993C4S.com after my favorite air-cooled Porsche. As the site has grown and gone through a number of changes, so has the audience. The Spring Start-up procedure listed below, while specific to a 993, can apply to almost all Porsches (outside of a few specific points). What I want to know is what specific start-up procedures do you go through for your particular Porsche? Is there anything specific to a 944 spring start-up? How about a 356 (other than turning the crank) I would like to expand this section to include procedures for each individual model but need your input to do so. I look forward to hearing your thoughts.
Most people are familiar with the process for getting their Porsche ready for winter storage. However, in our excitement we might not remember that there are certain steps, for both safety and mechanical reasons, that we should follow when putting our Porsches back into service after any long-term storage.
Steps for a Safe Porsche Spring Start-up
Do a quick walk around: Visually inspect the car, the tires, the lights, the interior, etc. Make sure nothing went flat, no cracks developed in any visible gaskets or lights and make sure you had no unwanted visitors build a nest in your tailpipe or anywhere else for that matter. Look under the car for any signs of new leaks that may have developed during storage.
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Battery: Hopefully you had some sort of Battery Tender” on you car during its storage. Not only will this ensure a smooth spring start-up, it will greatly extend the life of your battery (especially in a 993). Remove your batter tender and test it to make sure it has a full charge.
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Tires: Even though you did a quick walk-around, go back over your tires. Check the air-pressure (I use this style Porsche Tire Gauge as it came with my car, but any accurate gauge will do). Chances are you over inflated them for winter storage. Now, while the tires are cold, is the best time to adjust inflation back to proper levels. Look for any cracks in the sidewall or treads. Check for flat spots.
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Lubrication: Remember, your Porsche has been sitting for a long time. This means the oil has mostly settled and those delicate moving parts might not have enough protection on them. Prior to starting the car simply remove the DME or fuse that controls the fuel pump, and turn the car over a few times. You want to do this long enough to bring the oil and fuel pressure up. Once the pressure is up, replace the DME or fuse and start the car.
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Fire it up: If your Porsche was properly stored for the winter and you follow the steps above, your car should start with no problems. Once running, turn on the lights and blinkers and do another quick check to make sure all the electric systems are running. Hop back out of the car for one-last walk around and make sure you don’t see any new leaks now that the car is running.
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Test Drive: Roll your Porsche forward, test the brakes and take it out for a 20 or 30 minute drive around your neighbor hood. Be sure to take it slow at the beginning and let your Porsche come up to full operating temperature. I try not to bring my Porsche over 4000 RPMs until it is at full operating temp. Be sure to take a cell-phone with you in the unlikely event of a problem.
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Final Check: Do one final walk around. Check again for any fluid leaks. Check all your fluid levels. If everything is good to go, you’re done. Take the car out and enjoy.
Does your spring start-up procedure differ from mine? Let me know what you do differently or what you would add to the list?
When most people think about winterizing their Porsche, it’s usually with the intent to store the car for some period of time and avoid driving it through cold and winter like weather. What about those of you who drive your cars through the winter? No, I’m not talking about all you lucky Porsche owners that live in temperate climates where the idea of winterizing your car is turning off the air-conditioning and making sure the windows still roll down. This is for those of you who either choose to drive your Porsche through the cold, rain, sleet, snow and salt for your perverted enjoyment and/or out of necessity as your daily driver.
Contrary to popular belief many Porsches, especially the 911 models, makes great winter drivers if prepared and outfitted properly. Due to the rear-engine design of the 911, a considerable amount of weight sits on or behind the rear wheels. Combine this significant grip creating weight with proper winter driving tires and your Porsche will handle as well, if not better, than most family sedans. If you’re fortunate enough to have an all-wheel drive model (no, I’m not talking about the Cayenne), then the grip is nothing short of legendary.
One of the most common misconceptions about driving your Porsche in the winter, especially over salty roads, is that it will harm your finish and reduce the life-span of your car. The fact is, Porsches are fully galvanized and have been since 1976. As a result, they are resistant to salt and rust and with a little preventative maintenance it’s easy to drive your Porsche in inclement weather and still experience years and years of rust free enjoyment. For those cars built prior to rust-proofing, you’re out of luck and for sake of preservation it’s best to put them away for winter storage using the proper techniques.
Tips for Preparing and Maintaining your Porsche for Winter Driving
Buy Snow Tires for Your Porsche: This is probably the most important aspect of preparing your Porsche for winter. All season tires are great if you live in a temperate climate. However, if you’re going to face any snow at all I strongly recommend you get a dedicated snow tire. In fact, the best solution is to get a second set of wheels and tires specifically for winter driving. The benefit here is you don’t damage your nice Porsche wheels from big winter potholes, hidden curbs and the stress of changing tires before and after each season. In addition, it makes storage and mounting much faster, easier and cheaper in the long run. I recommend shopping for winter tires at Tire Rack. They have a long list of Porsche approved winter tires, are competitively priced and provide the easy ability to buy a combination tire and wheel set.
Check Your Fluids: Do you drive an air-cooled (oil-cooled) Porsche? If so, you might consider changing your oil to a thinner viscosity for the duration of your cold weather driving. Low viscosity motor oils that pour easily at low temperatures typically have a “5W” or “10W” rating. There are also 15W and 20W grade motor oils. This page offers some good basic information on oil-viscosity. If you drive one of the newer water-pumpers (996, 986, 977, etc.) be sure to check your coolant level and condition. Consideration should be given to the quality and amount of coolant currently in the system. If possible, you might want to take the opportunity to have the coolant system flushed, cleaned and refilled with fresh anti-freeze. Lastly, don’t forget that all important windshield washer fluid. There’s nothing worse then getting caught behind an SUV or big truck kicking up that “salt-mist” and trying to scrape it off the windshield with dry wipers as you listen to your washer motor pump away against an empty reservoir.
Don’t neglect the body: Just because your Porsche is rust proofed, doesn’t mean there aren’t things you can do to help provide even better protection. A good thorough cleaning for your Porsche, prior to the winter weather, is a must. Be sure to put a good quality wax on the car before the bad weather starts. This added layer of protection will make it easier to rinse the accumulated dirt, dust and salt away during and after the winter weather. If you want to take things a step further, you can even put a coat of wax on your wheels for even more protection.
Avoid pressure washing: I know it’s tempting to use those high-pressure washers to clean the salt and sand off your car over the winter (especially the touch free drive through) but if possible, it’s best to avoid them. Why? Simple. Instead of rinsing the salt gently from your cars finish, those high-pressure systems can actually drive the salt deep into places you don’t want it and possibly accelerate or start the corrosion problem (not to mention it will more quickly strip off your nice pre-winter wax job). A better solution (if you have the time and facilities) is to simply rinse with a garden hose or use the low pressure setting on the do it yourself type of car wash.
Check tire pressures monthly:Tire pressure can change by one (1) psi for every 10 degree farenheit change in temperature (use manufacturer-recommended pressure). I live in the North East which experiences huge temperature swings and I’m constantly check my tire pressure. A good Porsche tire gauge with case is a must!
Besides preparing your Porsche for winter, what about actually driving it in the winter? Porsche offers a number of different winter driving schools and they look like a lot of fun. The tips below are mostly common sense, but we all know not every driver is blessed with this quality.
Winter Driving Tips Straight from the Porsche Camp4 Colorado Driving School
Cars respond more slowly on slippery surfaces. Always wait a moment after steering, braking, or accelerating to see how the car behaves before giving it more input.
Visibility is greatly reduced in bad weather. Make sure you can see clearly, and turn on your headlights.
Brake carefully and accelerate more gently.
Get the car pointed where you want to go before getting on the gas.
Be aware of reduced grip.
Take corners at lower speeds.
Brake sooner and longer than on dry surfaces.
Apex later.
Look for fresh snow – it provides more grip.
Avoid icy ruts.
Look farther ahead. So many of us keep our eyes glued to the back of the car in front of us. The car goes where you look, so get those eyes up and anticipate your next move!
Lastly, if you do happen to drive an all-wheel drive Porsche, be it a 911 or a Cayenne, please, please remember that all-wheel drive does not make you invincible. Yes, you may have slightly better grip and you might be able to accelerate faster, but you sure as hell can’t stop any faster. Keep this in mind when you’re on the highway driving a good 15 to 20mph faster than everyone else around you.
Do you drive your Porsche in winter conditions? If so, I would love to hear from you. Do you prepare your Porsche differently? Are there things I missed and can add to the the list?
Updated November 24, 2009: Over time, this post has evolved. As a result, I’ve added a few additional steps that you might find beneficial. If you are interested in this more complete list, then look at this updated post on How to Prepare Your Porsche for Winter Storage.
For a fortunate group of you, this post won’t be relative. Maybe your Porsche came with the optional snow-plow, you are lucky enough to live in a climate that allows for year-round driving, or, you love your Porsche so much, that you put on snow tires and zip around in the winter weather. If you fall into either of the two latter groups, then I’ll have a post for you next week about Thing to do if you Drive Your Porsche Through the Winter. For the rest of us unlucky souls, we need to (or feel compelled to) put our car away for the winter.
I’ve always considered the day my car(s) (especially my Porsches) go away for the winter as one of the Worst Days of the Year. As bad as it is, you can still have fun (by driving your Porsche as much as possible) getting ready to put your p-car away. Here’s how I prepare myself and my cars for their long winter nap. If any of you do things differently, or think I missed something, please do comment and let me know so I can update this post.
1. SET THE DATE
I live in New England (North Eastern portion of the US), so I’m always looking at the weather forecasts to see what to expect in the weeks to come. I’ve been fortunate enough to drive my cars all the way up to Christmas some years and in others I have had to put them away before Halloween (although it’s been a long time since that’s happened).
The first Porsche I ever purchased was a 1973 911 T (purchased in 1999) with 45k documented miles (two owners) and original paint. This car is pristine. As a result, I’m obsessed with keeping her as original and clean as possible. This means that the car never sees rain, let alone any snow or salt. Now, nine years later, with a 993 in the garage, I still find the idea of getting salt on my car repellent. So, watch the weather forecast and get your car inside before they start putting salt on the road. Remember, it doesn’t have to snow for them to salt. You can get salt on the roads from freezing rain too. As a general rule, I set a drop dead date for putting the car away and then watch the weather like a hawk so I don’t get caught.
2. MAKE A CHECKLIST
While this isn’t a necessity, it does make it easier if you haven’t put your Porsche away for a nice winter’s rest in the past. Things I recommend are as follows:
a. Clean it inside and out. The cleaner the car is when you put it away, the better it will look every time you check in on it. I usually do a complete wash and a put a quick coat of wax on just for that added protection. Don’t forget the wheels. The last thing you want to do is leave brake dust on your rims to sit and eat at the finish for the winter.
b. Gas it up. Make sure you have as full a tank as possible. I make it a point to gas up at the station closest to my garage right before I put away my car. With a full tank you help to keep out any unwanted condensation or water build up that can happen when a car sits all winter long.
c. Use a fuel additive. I like Gold Eagle 22214 STA-BIL Fuel Stabilizer. 32 oz.. Read the directions and use the proper amount for your tank size. The key with any fuel additive is to put it in prior to filling the tank and then to make sure you drive for a few miles to get the additive throughout the entire fuel system.
d. Tire Pressure. If you’re not going to put your car up on jack-stand (which I don’t recommend), the best thing is to get a good amount of tire pressure in each tire. Make sure you don’t over inflate past the manufacturers recommend capacity, but you should go over the recommend driving pressure. In general, tires can lose 1 psi per month under normal conditions and an addition 1 psi per ever 10 degree (Fahrenheit) drop in temp. As a general rule of thumb, I put 50lbs of pressure in each tire. You have to remember to do this when the tires are cold or you won’t get an accurate reading and you may end up with flat spots. There is nothing worse then taking your Porsche out for the first time in the spring and having damaged tires due to flat spots from storage. Properly inflated tires will avoid this. I use the Porsche tire gauge (I received it as a gift) to manage my tire pressure.
Another option to consider is to use some type of tire cradle. Basically, this is a shaped piece of plastic or hard foam that “cradles” your tire and will keep them from developing those dreaded flat spots. One such product to consider is the Flatstoppers produced by Brute Industries (the makers of RaceRamps.)
e. Battery. Some people like to take the battery out of their cars or at least disconnect them. Not me. I like to use some form of SuperSmart Battery Tender to make sure my battery is always fresh and I’m ready to go. It would be a shame to get a nice Spring day, go to start the car and find you have a dead battery (not to mention, it can get expensive replacing your battery every year). Let’s face it, the electronics in a modern Porsche tend to eat up a battery pretty easily if the car isn’t used frequently. So, either disconnect it or put on some type of SuperSmart Battery Tender. What you definitely want to avoid is starting your Porsche and letting it “warm-up” or run to charge the battery. This simply allows condensation to develop or collect in your motor (you won’t get it hot enough to burn it off) and can possibly cause long-term damage. Look in your manual, you will see this is not recommended. Remember, if you do decide to disconnect the battery, you will need to have your radio code handy in the spring to get your system functioning again.
f. Cover it. Even if your car is in a nice heated garage, securely tucked away with the key hidden, I’ve always thought it a good idea to keep my cars covered. This way, you don’t have to worry about anyone or anything bumping into or crawling on or over you nice paint. I use a thick, padded, custom fitted cover from California Car Covers. If you do use a cover make sure it covers your exhaust pipes. If you don’t use a cover, you might want to think of covering your pipes with something (those big 16 oz keg cups work great). The idea behind this is to keep out any rodents that might want to try and build a nest for the winter. You laugh, but I’ve seen it happen to friends cars and it can be very frustrating and expensive. If you’re looking for a cover and don’t want to spend the money on a custom one, Empire Covers offers Car Covers starting at $24.99!
3. DRIVE IT
This should probably be up at the very top, but I don’t want you to forget. The most important thing you can do prior to putting your toy away is to drive it and enjoy as you may not have her back on the road for another 4 to 6 months.
4. VISIT OFTEN
One of the reasons I bought my Porsches in the first place was that I just love the overall design of the 911 (I’m sure that was a major factor in your decision making process as well). I get a lot of enjoyment simply from looking at my car (although not as much as I do when driving.)
Even with the price of oil dropping quickly, the prices at the pump reflect this change much more slowly. Premium gasoline (91 to 93 octane) in my part of the world is still well north of $4.00 per gallon. Imagine my surprise then after reading a NY Times article that it just might be that I’ve been wasting my money for a very long time. Sure, there are some performance trade-offs, but if the article is to be believed, they are very minor. Let’s explore this topic some more.
My most modern Porsche is a 1997 993 C4S. According to the manual I should only use a “premium” grade unleaded fuel with an Octane rating of 91 or higher. Because I love my car and I don’t want to hurt it, and, I had no reason to believe I could do anything but what the manual said, I have always run premium fuel in my car. In most instances 93 octane. When I can’t find 93 I put in at least 91. What is an Octane rating? Good question.
Octane Ratings Defined
According to How Stuff Works:
The octane rating of gasoline tells you how much the fuel can be compressed before it spontaneously ignites. Lower-octane gas (like “regular” 87-octane gasoline) can handle the least amount of compression before igniting.
The name “octane” comes from the following fact: When you take crude oil and “crack” it in a refinery, you end up getting hydrocarbon chains of different lengths. These different chain lengths can then be separated from each other and blended to form different fuels. For example, you may have heard of methane, propane and butane. All three of them are hydrocarbons. Methane has just a single carbon atom. Propane has three carbon atoms chained together. Butane has four carbon atoms chained together. Pentane has five, hexane has six, heptane has seven and octane has eight carbons chained together.
It turns out that heptane handles compression very poorly. Compress it just a little and it ignites spontaneously. Octane handles compression very well — you can compress it a lot and nothing happens. Eighty-seven-octane gasoline is gasoline that contains 87-percent octane and 13-percent heptane (or some other combination of fuels that has the same performance of the 87/13 combination of octane/heptane). It spontaneously ignites at a given compression level, and can only be used in engines that do not exceed that compression ratio.
For some, that’s probably more than you ever wanted to know about Octane; for others, it’s probably not enough. Stay with me as I’m not trying to turn this into a technical post. To sum things up, we use a higher Octane rated fuel in our Porsches to avoid spontaneous combustion that could cause knocking, thus potentially damaging our motors. This begs the question…
What is Engine Knocking and How can it Damage a Motor?
Almost all cars use four-stroke gasoline engines. One of the “strokes” is the compression stroke, where the engine compresses a cylinder-full of air and gas into a much smaller volume before igniting it with a spark plug. When gas ignites by compression rather than because of the spark from the spark plug, it causes knocking in the engine. Knocking can damage an engine, by creating excessive and premature wear to the piston and cylinder walls, so it is not something you want to have happening.
Today’s newer cars, including Porsches, have sophisticated computerized engine monitoring. These electronic brains monitor the activity in our motors and can actually advance or retard the timing (when the spark fires to ignite the fuel and push down the piston) in order to curtail any potential knocking before it happens.
What about warranty issues you ask? Won’t running lower than the recommended fuel octane ratings void your warranty. Tony Fouladpour, as spokesman for Porsche North America, was quoted in the NY Times article as saying,
“If you want the car to perform at its maximum capability, the best choice would not be 87, but we do not forbid it.”
I’m not suggesting you run out and start putting 87 octane in your Porsche, in fact just the opposite. I realize the title to this article may be a little misleading, but it is not intentional. In fact, it’s the question I wanted to answer, it just took me a long time to get there. So, how much money have you wasted buying premium fuel for your Porsche? My answer is none.
Let’s face it, sure you might save a couple of bucks a fill-up, but do you really want to take the risk? Curiously enough, Porsche doesn’t set a cut-off date for the statement made by Mr. Fouladpour. Clearly you don’t want to run anything than what is recommended in anything older than a 996 model. I just wouldn’t trust the engine control systems to do a good enough job. To me, saving a few bucks at each fill up just isn’t worth the potential of a five figure engine rebuild.
There are quite a few threads on both Rennlist and Pelican on this subject. I’d be curious to know what each of you think? What are you running for gas in your car? What about Ethanol and its effect on your motor and performance? I’ll have more on this subject next week.
[Source: How Stuff Works and NY Time online edition]
Today’s post comes from guest blogger Andrew Granieri. You may remember Andrew from his great set of posts that outlined the detailing and transformation of the paint on his Porsche 944. As a refresher, Andrew is a student at Miami University, studying Technical & Scientific Communications with a double Minor in Marketing & Entrepreneurship. He enjoys maintaining his 1986 Porsche 944 and joy-riding in his father’s 997 whenever possible. Here’s what Andrew had to say…
Drivers rejoice! The price of oil recently dropped significantly, but we all know fuel prices are wildly inconsistent day to day, week to week. A poll was posed a couple months ago on this blog, asking drivers if they changed their driving habits in these strange times, when $3.89 is considered a great deal for a gallon of gasoline. I didn’t think of changing my habits much when the poll was created, but now that I commute from Cincinnati to Cleveland on the weekends, I’ve reconsidered. Over the past two months, I’ve experimented with my driving style and found that small changes can in fact, make a profound impact on my mileage as well as my wallet.
I feel I should note that I have always supported the idea of driving a car as it was designed to be driven. While (sigh) slow by today’s standards, my normally-aspirated 944 wasn’t designed with puttering around in mind. In the past 3 years that I’ve owned it, 80% of the time I’ve been behind the wheel was time spent really driving it; shifting at or past 5,000 RPMS (once up to temp, of course!), spirited down-shifts, etc. Perhaps this accounts for my catastrophic ring and pinion failure earlier this year? – nah…
Gas mileage is great for a Porsche
That said, one would think my mileage on the road is about as poor as it is on the track. Not so! I did some rough calculations from last season and found my track mileage to be in the neighborhood of 7-12 mpg, which is pretty bad! However, on the street, as enthusiastic as I am behind the wheel I’ve found I consistently get between 22-27mpg, depending on my city-highway driving ratio. While that mileage doesn’t put a Prius to shame, it’s certainly respectable for a Porsche. But I knew from the way I drove that it was capable of more, and my job in Cleveland gave me the perfect opportunity to try out a few things.
My Oxford apartment is about 260 miles away from downtown Cleveland, which makes for a lot of freeway driving. However, my daily commute to work is from a suburb 40 minutes outside of town, often in stop and go rush hour traffic, so I’m still getting a fair amount of “city” driving in as well. 944’s came with a surprisingly large 21.1 gallon fuel tank, and I fall into the elite (read: poorer than they look) group of people who can say they drive a Porsche and fill up with 87 octane at the pump. I’ve now gone through several tanks of fuel, with dramatic results, with only one major change to my driving style: throttle control.
As hard as it is to resist the urge to drive a bit faster, I’ve managed a few thousand miles this summer not shifting higher than 3,000 RPMs and surprisingly, the difference in fuel economy has been astounding. Now for some quick and dirty math: if I average my range, mentioned above, of avg. mpg — 22 and 27, I get 24.5 mpg with my typical driving style. Assuming I drive until the car’s almost empty and consume 20 gallons of fuel, the MPG comes out to 490 miles covered — very respectable, even if it’s in part to the large fuel tank. Twice now since I started driving less aggressively, I’ve put 20.2 and 20.1 gallons in with the odometer at 565 and 540 miles respectively — that’s roughly 28 and 27 mpg!
32 Miles per gallon in a 944
Not bad, you say, but my record — and this is ASTOUNDING — a touch under 640 miles and I filled the tank with 20 gallons and some change — that’s close to THIRTY-TWO miles per gallon! I’m convinced I’ll never be that lucky with fuel economy, as there were a few extenuating circumstances that week; I’d left Cincinnati for my job in Cleveland job at 2 am, which left me with ZERO traffic to slow down for so my speed and fuel consumption was slow and consistent for the 250 mile drive up and during the week I also was very fortunate to avoid the brunt of rush hour traffic. I have all my receipts to prove fuel purchases, but didn’t document the miles and forgot to snap a photo of my dashboard before resetting my odometer — should I repeat the same feat with as much success as 32 mpg I’ll be sure to take a photo, even if it’s from my camera phone. I will admit with fuel prices starting to come down, it may be hard for me to continue this thrifty driving style; time will tell.
Give us some feedback
But proving to the world that a 22-year old four-banger can be fuel-efficient wasn’t my intent with this writing. I want to ask fellow Porsche owners — what’s the highest MPG you’ve achieved in your car? I’m also issuing a challenge — spend a few weeks not riding to the red line, I know these cars were made to be driven, but if you are fortunate enough to say a Porsche is your daily driver, it is worth the patience to investigate your fuel economy — you might surprise yourself! Post your MPGs in a comment below and don’t forget to let us know what you’re driving!
This may be followed up with me attempting something similar with my old man’s 997 C4S, which I believe averages 19.2 mpg according to the on-board computer – but for me to conduct such a test would require him to willingly relinquish his keys.
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that are shaped to the tire and help to prevent flat spots without the need to over inflate.
if your garage is not climate controlled.
4. Tire Pressure: If you’re not going to put your car up on jack-stand (which I don’t recommend), the next best thing is to get a good amount of tire pressure in each tire. Make sure you don’t over inflate past the manufacturers recommend capacity, but you should go over the recommend driving pressure. In general, tires can lose 1 psi per month under normal conditions and an addition 1 psi per ever 10 degree (Fahrenheit) drop in temp. As a general rule of thumb, I put 50lbs of pressure in each tire. You have to remember to do this when the tires are cold or you won’t get an accurate reading and you may end up with flat spots. There is nothing worse then taking your Porsche out for the first time in the spring and having damaged tires due to flat spots from storage. Properly inflated tires will avoid this.
. I admit I was very skeptical when I initially saw the device; the whole thing is no larger than my big toe, it has only one LED – I’ve been accustomed to a trusty 7-LED flashlight. Even so, I gave this thing a one-week trial.*
Porsche owners who are concerned that this would hog their only 12V outlet can breathe a sigh of relief – there’s a Spotlight adaptor that allows you to recharge your Spotlight alongside your cell phone/ GPS/ radar detector! Very handy!
The Spotlight’s focused beam pierced the darkness my pitch-black basement. This shot was taken (sans flash 
) from 20 feet away. The Spotlight doesn’t try to spread light around because it’s too busy doing a great job throwing light precisely where you need it. 
” on you car during its storage. Not only will this ensure a smooth spring start-up, it will greatly extend the life of your battery (especially in a 993). Remove your batter tender and test it to make sure it has a full charge.
as it came with my car, but any accurate gauge will do). Chances are you over inflated them for winter storage. Now, while the tires are cold, is the best time to adjust inflation back to proper levels. Look for any cracks in the sidewall or treads. Check for flat spots.
When most people think about winterizing their Porsche, it’s usually with the intent to 
(the makers of 
f. Cover it. Even if your car is in a nice heated garage, securely tucked away with the key hidden, I’ve always thought it a good idea to keep my cars covered. This way, you don’t have to worry about anyone or anything bumping into or crawling on or over you nice paint. I use a thick, padded, custom fitted cover from California Car Covers. If you do use a cover make sure it covers your exhaust pipes. If you don’t use a cover, you might want to think of covering your pipes with something (those big 16 oz keg cups work great). The idea behind this is to keep out any rodents that might want to try and build a nest for the winter. You laugh, but I’ve seen it happen to friends cars and it can be very frustrating and expensive. If you’re looking for a cover and don’t want to spend the money on a custom one, Empire Covers offers 
Even with the price of oil dropping quickly, the prices at the pump reflect this change much more slowly. Premium gasoline (91 to 93 octane) in my part of the world is still well north of $4.00 per gallon. Imagine my surprise then after reading a 
Let’s face it, sure you might save a couple of bucks a fill-up, but do you really want to take the risk? Curiously enough, Porsche doesn’t set a cut-off date for the statement made by Mr. Fouladpour. Clearly you don’t want to run anything than what is recommended in anything older than a 996 model. I just wouldn’t trust the engine control systems to do a good enough job. To me, saving a few bucks at each fill up just isn’t worth the potential of a five figure engine rebuild.
Today’s post comes from guest blogger Andrew Granieri. You may remember Andrew from his great set of posts that outlined the 
