It’s that time of year again, at least for those of us who don’t drive our Porsches year round. It’s time to start thinking about putting your Porsche away for a long winter nap. This post won’t be relative for those of you who are fortunate enough to live in a climate that allows you to drive your Porsche year round, brave enough to put winter tires on and and drive your Porsche through the winter, or for those of you that own a Cayenne. For the rest of you read on.
Each year I put together a list of the steps taken to winterize my Porsche(s). As my cars are all oil air cooled, I thought I would make it a point this year to include steps for those of you with water pumpers (why discriminate). It seems that I keep adding a new step every year, so if I missed something below that you include in your winterization process, please let me know by commenting at the end of this post.
The longer version is below with a detailed explanation of each step. However, for those of you in a hurry, here’s the short version:
Set the date.
Wash and clean, inside and out.
Gas it up and include a fuel additive like STA-BIL.
Fill your tires to the maximum pressure allowed by your tire; or, use a set of tire cradles that are shaped to the tire and help to prevent flat spots without the need to over inflate.
For those of you pumping more water than oil through the pipes, be sure the check and top off your anti-freeze.
Put the car in gear or park and don’t apply the parking brake.
You might consider placing some type of reusable desiccant in the car, like this Pelican 1500D Peli Desiccant Silica Gel 2 if your garage is not climate controlled.
Cover it.
Call your insurance company and reduce all your coverages to minimum and remove the liability insurance (in some states this can save you as much as $100 per month.
Play racing games, drive simulators and wait for the snow to melt and the salt to get washed away so you can prepare to drive your Porsche again in the Spring.
Preparing your Porsche for Winter Storage
1. Set the date: Living in New England, I’m never sure what the weather is going to be from one minute to the next. As fall gets closer to winter I pay closer and closer attention to the weather. I’m obsessed with keeping my cars clean and rust free and that’s hard to do with the amount of salt placed on the road during a typical New England winter. So, rather than taking any chances, I watch the weather and make sure to have my car prepped and ready before the first snow flies.
2. Clean it inside and out: The cleaner the car is when you put it away, the better it will look every time you check in on it. I usually do a complete wash and a put a quick coat of wax on just for that added protection. Don’t forget the wheels. The last thing you want to do is leave brake dust on your rims to sit and eat at the finish for the winter.
3. Gas it up: Make sure you have as full a tank as possible. I make it a point to gas up at the station closest to my garage right before I put away my car. With a full tank you help to keep out any unwanted condensation or water build up that can happen when a car sits all winter long.
3a. Use a fuel additive: I like Gold Eagle 22214 STA-BIL Fuel Stabilizer. 32 oz.. Read the directions and use the proper amount for your tank size. The key with any fuel additive is to put it in prior to filling the tank and then to make sure you drive for a few miles to get the additive throughout the entire fuel system.
4. Tire Pressure: If you’re not going to put your car up on jack-stand (which I don’t recommend), the next best thing is to get a good amount of tire pressure in each tire. Make sure you don’t over inflate past the manufacturers recommend capacity, but you should go over the recommend driving pressure. In general, tires can lose 1 psi per month under normal conditions and an addition 1 psi per ever 10 degree (Fahrenheit) drop in temp. As a general rule of thumb, I put 50lbs of pressure in each tire. You have to remember to do this when the tires are cold or you won’t get an accurate reading and you may end up with flat spots. There is nothing worse then taking your Porsche out for the first time in the spring and having damaged tires due to flat spots from storage. Properly inflated tires will avoid this.
Another option to consider is to use some type of tire cradle. Basically, this is a shaped piece of plastic or hard foam that “cradles” your tire and will keep them from developing those dreaded flat spots. One such product to consider are Flat Stoppers from Brute Industries. (the makers of RaceRamps.)
5. Check and top off the anti-freeze: With the introduction of the Porsche 996, Porsche gave us the first production, water cooled motor in a 911. Each new Porsche model since has continued this water pumping tradition. Regardless if your Porsche is stored indoors or out (you never know if your indoor space may loose power) it is a good idea to to check and top off all your fluids, paying special attention to your engine coolant/anti-freeze. Once topped off, be sure to run the car for a few minutes to ensure that fluids are properly circulated throughout the engine block. The last thing you want is to come back in the spring and find your beloved Porsche weeping green tears into a puddle around the tires.
6. Battery Maintenance: Some people like to take the battery out of their cars or at least disconnect them. Not me. I like to use some form of SuperSmart Battery Tender to make sure my battery is always fresh and I’m ready to go. It would be a shame to get a nice Spring day, go to start the car and find you have a dead battery (not to mention, it can get expensive replacing your battery every year). Let’s face it, the electronics in a modern Porsche tend to eat up a battery pretty easily if the car isn’t used frequently. So, either disconnect it or put on some type of SuperSmart Battery Tender. What you definitely want to avoid is starting your Porsche and letting it “warm-up” or run to charge the battery. This simply allows condensation to develop or collect in your motor (you won’t get it hot enough to burn it off) and can possibly cause long-term damage. Look in your manual, you will see this is not recommended. A few additional things to remember if you do decide to disconnect the battery: 1. you will need to have your radio code handy in the spring to get your system functioning again. 2. If your Porsche is equipped with an electronic hood latch, be sure not to close the hood all the way. If you do, you will need to jump the switch through the fuse box which is entirely all to annoying when you simply want to drive your baby again. A simple way to avoid this is to place a small piece of foam padding under the latch preventing it from engaging.
7. No Parking Brake: I’ve always just left my car(s) in gear of in park and left the parking brake off. Different people say different things about this step, but I’ve always felt, why risk it? Why risk having the parking brake freeze or bind over months of storage. I’ve heard others say that long term use of the brake system can stretch the cable and weaken the system. If you are worried about your Porsche going for a drive without you behind the wheel, a simple and inexpensive Wheel Chock works very well. If you don’t want to spend the money on something application specific, grab a piece of wood from the pile and snug it under a tire. This will work just as well.
8. Keep it dry: Moisture is your enemy during long term storage. The best way to win over the wet is with the use of simple dessicant packs. Personally, I like these Desiccant Silica Gel Packs from Pelican because they are inexpensive, self contained and more importantly, reusable. Three or four of these should be sufficient for most Porsche applications. At the end of the season simply place it in the oven until the color changes back indicating dry and you’re ready for the next season.
9. Cover it: Even if your car is in a nice heated garage, securely tucked away with the key hidden, I’ve always thought it a good idea to keep my cars covered. This way, you don’t have to worry about anyone or anything bumping into or crawling on or over you nice paint. I use a thick, padded, custom fitted cover from California Car Covers. If you do use a cover make sure it covers your exhaust pipes. If you don’t use a cover (or yours doesn’t cover the pipes), you might want to think of covering your pipes with something (those big 16 oz keg cups work great). The idea behind this is to keep out any rodents that might want to try and build a nest for the winter. You laugh, but I’ve seen it happen to friends cars and it can be very frustrating and expensive. If you’re looking for a cover and don’t want to spend the money on a custom one, Empire Covers offers Car Covers starting at $24.99!
10. Save some money: I know that many of you may not have access to winter storage and as a result, need to rent storage space from a local garage or self-storage area. A great way to help offset the cost of this storage area is to reduce your insurance coverages. Specifically, remove all the liability coverage (as you won’t be driving) and reduce your other coverages to the state required minimums. Depending no where you live and the type of coverage you have on your Porsche this could save you anywhere from $50 to $500 a year in insurance costs.
That’s it, youre Porsche is now ready for a rest and you can begin planning your drives for next spring. Remember, your Porsche will get lonely so be sure to visit often. One of the main reasons I purchased my Porsches was the look of the 911. It’s a work of art that gives me enjoyment every time I see. So, when I don’t get to drive over the winter, I sneak a peek into the garage at least once a week, just to check in.
Is there anything I missed? Do you have other steps in your winterization process that other readers may benefit from? If so, let us all know by commenting below.
Let’s face it, if you own a Porsche the chances are better than average that at some point you will get pulled over for speeding. I know, I know, you were only on the go pedal for a minute, you just wanted to feel that pulse quickening acceleration or hear that sonorous sound of your exhaust. Maybe you were unfairly profiled for driving a Porsche. Whatever the reason, most of us are bound to get pulled over at some point. If you don’t know how to avoid a speeding ticket, in the first place, then how you act and what you do after being stopped will play a bigger role in the outcome than what you did to get pulled over.
First Step Toward Beating a Speeding Ticket: Set the Police Officer at Ease!
Most police officers will tell you the most dangerous type of calls they respond to are those involving domestic violence. The reason is they simply don’t know what they are walking into. Making a traffic stop is a very close second. The officer can get some information by running your plates, but it’s no guarantee that the person behind the wheel is the same as who the car is registered to. They have limited visibility into your car, they can’t always see your hands and don’t have any idea why you were speeding. How you react as the police office approaches your car plays a huge roll in the outcome of this event. While a well trained officer is never going to let their guard down, you can help to relax them, even just a little. After being pulled over you might consider doing the following:
Don’t make any sudden movements
If it is night time turn on the interior light in your car so the officer can see inside
Roll down your driver’s side window so the officer doesn’t have to ask you to do so
DON’T REACH FOR YOUR LICENSE AND REGISTRATION, ESPECIALLY IF THEY ARE IN THE GLOVE BOX OR STORAGE AREA
Instead, put both your hands on the steering wheel, in plain site so it is easy to see you’re not carrying any kind of weapon that could be a threat to the police officer’s personal safety.
Second Step Toward Beating a Speeding Ticket: Be Respectful!
This is perhaps the most important thing you can do. Sure, you’re frustrated, maybe even mad at getting pulled over. The absolute worst things you can do is take it out on the officer. Ever seen this guy before (warning, there’s a bit of swearing)? It’s a miracle he wasn’t thrown in jail!
The video above is a great example of what not to do. Here are a few things to consider:
Above all else, be courteous. Like it or not the police officer is just doing their job.
Be calm. The officers level of intensity will most likely always be one level above yours, it has to be. Keep cool and level and the officer will too.
If you followed my advice from the first step, then your window is down and your hands are on the steering wheel. When the police officer asks for your license and registration, let him know where they are and ask if it is okay to reach for them. For example, “Officer, my registration is in the glove box and my license is in my wallet, is it okay for me to reach and get them?”
This is a highly stressful situation for the officer (whether they seem it or not). You can put them at ease with your actions and demeanor.
Lastly, Plead Your Case, but Not Too Hard
Some times, when being pulled over for speeding, a police officer has estimated your speed vs. capturing it on a radar gun. In these instances you’re very likely to here these questions, “Do you know why I pulled you over?” Or, another favorite is, “Do you know how fast your were going?” These questions server a number of purposes for the officer, not only could they get you to admit guilt (which could later be used against you if you try to fight a ticket) they are also using it as a tactic to engage you in a conversation to judge your mental faculties and listen to you speak (in other words, determine if you’re under the influence of alcohol or drugs). Assuming you’re not high or drunk (if you are, you’re on your own) a simple, polite, non-committal approach is the best way to answer these questions. You might try a simply “no” to answer the first and a “I’m sorry, I was focusing on driving safely and the traffic around me.”
If the officer tells you that you were clocked on radar going 80mph in a 50mph zone, you still don’t have to admit guilt, but you might want to try pleading your case. Remember, the officer has discretion and if you were polite and courteous they can still let you off with a warning or a reduced fine. An important distinction to remember is that you want to beat the ticket and the system, not the police officer.
Two arguments that have been known to work (but are by no means fool proof) are crying and by telling the truth. If you were speeding and you think there was a legitimate reason for it, by all means let the officer know. Are you rushing to get home because of an emergency? Has a loved one been injured, etc. While not an excuse, the truth might just set you free.
So remember:
Be Calm
Be Respectful
If Appropriate, Plead Your Case
I know this post could potentially open a big can of worms as most people will have an opinion on what works and what doesn’t, so let’s hear ‘em. I’ll take the best and add it to the list when I update the article. Check back in a couple of weeks for a follow up on iwhat to do in the event you get a speeding ticket.
As an owner of a less reliable older, higher mileage Porsche, I can list my top five most annoying aspects of roadside emergencies. They are as follows:
Discovering the air pump is broken when changing a flat tire
Discovering I don’t have the tools on hand to complete a repair
Discovering half the electrical system is either shorted out or otherwise in need of repairs
Not having spare clothes to work in the rain
(In addition to item number two) NOT ENOUGH LIGHT
While the burden falls on me to check supplies, be prepared and take care of preventative maintenance, there are always electrical gremlins that are impossible to predict or account for, so like most folks with a Porsche 924/944/928/964 etc., I have to devise a backup plan in case I’m stranded somewhere, day or night, rain or shine.
Before I Saw the Light…
My backup plan to date consists of a few emergency flares, a first-aid kit, and a 170-piece tool kit in the back hatch of the 944. In winter months, I carry a snowsuit and a blanket, too. I used to carry a 2,000,000 candlelight spotlight, as well. I saw this as an advantageous addition to my tools because it threw a lot of light and it allowed me to give people driving behind me with their brights on a taste of their own medicine (Please Note: This is so illegal it’s not funny, but it’s so incredibly entertaining that I’ll laugh anyways, and it’s still a very effective deterrent. PorschePurist.com does not in any way condone treating fellow drivers like this. Unless, of course, they deserve it). However, the spotlight was purchased from Wal-Mart, and its battery was useless after a year’s time and after two years it ceased to work at all! This left me up a familiar creek without a paddle any time I had to make nighttime repairs, especially now that my interior lights don’t work.
… But Now
This changed when I was introduced to the 12VSpotlight Rechargeable Flashlight. I admit I was very skeptical when I initially saw the device; the whole thing is no larger than my big toe, it has only one LED – I’ve been accustomed to a trusty 7-LED flashlight. Even so, I gave this thing a one-week trial.*
That was about six or seven weeks ago. I don’t know where my 7-LED flashlight is, and I don’t care! The 12VSpotlight packs tons of power in a tiny package! I was VERY happy to find that it’s about as bright as my old light, and where it lacks in luminescence it more than makes up for with portability and durability.
An Extended Trial
The first weekend I had it, the future Mrs. heard a cat crying outside her apartment late one night and I was so excited to have an excuse to play with and test the functionality of the Spotlight that I ran outside in search of the poor creature. Ten minutes later, I found myself precariously perched on a wavering wire fence, half climbing, half hanging from an oak tree in an effort to rescue a black and white cat that was stuck atop a branch some 15 feet above the ground. In spite of its darker colors, this animal was seen as bright as day, thanks to the Spotlight! There were several times when I lost my footing and had to drop the light to grab the tree trunk while coaxing the cat down. Any other flashlight would have fallen to the ground, but not the Spotlight, which comes with a handy lanyard, ensuring the Spotlight was always within my grasp.
We’ve since moved into a house together, and while I was still unfamiliar with the locations of light switches I oftentimes took the Spotlight around the house. I should also mention that in all these seven weeks, I’ve used it many times, and it is still on its first charge. My old LED light would have required four AAA batteries by now – which reminds me, this little guy doesn’t require batteries! Just plug it straight into your car’s cigarette lighter. Speaking of cars…
I was asked to write this from a Porsche enthusiast’s perspective, not some SPCA member! Strictly cars, from here on out!
Brilliance and Utilitarianism
Before my cigarette lighter ceased to work, I found the Spotlight was an excellent road-going companion. After the lighter conked out, the Spotlight’s performance wasn’t adversely perfected (obviously), but I became worried about being unable to charge it. Two months on one charge has since negated this opinion, though!
The Spotlight can be dangled through tricky spaces under the hood to diagnose oil leaks and examine the belts. 944 owners will also appreciate the fact that Spotlight’s brightness is strong enough to see the coolant level in all but the most hopelessly cloudy 944 coolant expansion tanks. The light is also small enough to examine the portal in the bell housing to find the mark on the crankshaft. The gritty, dirty work under the car is much brighter with the Spotlight. I found myself underneath the 944 more than a couple times, chomping on the Spotlight as if it were a Churchill-sized cigar, keeping both hands free to handle tools.
Porsche owners who are concerned that this would hog their only 12V outlet can breathe a sigh of relief – there’s a Spotlight adaptor that allows you to recharge your Spotlight alongside your cell phone/ GPS/ radar detector! Very handy!
Elegance and Convenience
Because I needed an excuse to drive my father’s 911, and not to leave owners of newer Porsches out of the fun, I borrowed the key’s to my father’s 997 C4S to test the Spotlight’s capabilities within the commanding confines of a newer 911. Newer 911s have a cigarette lighter near the gearshift and a power outlet in the center console storage area. The Spotlight outlet splitter fits in the console’s outlet and allows drivers to use another device besides the Spotlight, but it limits the amount of space left in the console – it’s small to begin with though, so this may not matter to most drivers. I can honestly say that the Spotlight is just as useful in a new 997 as it is in my 944.
In a darkened parking lot, 997 owners should know that I did not have to remain next to the car to shoo off hoodlums, thieves, infants or anyone else that could breathe on the car improperly. Thanks to the Spotlight, I was able to be as far as 40 feet away and still see the car, almost worry-free!
The Spotlight’s focused beam pierced the darkness my pitch-black basement. This shot was taken (sans flash ) from 20 feet away. The Spotlight doesn’t try to spread light around because it’s too busy doing a great job throwing light precisely where you need it.
Inside the car, the Spotlight is just as useful. I was able to open a bottle of Remy Martin Napoleon cognac with no guesswork, and filled the snifter without spilling a drop on the expensive leather interior. The wine test was not as seamless, but the Spotlight’s lanyard left both of my hands free to use the corkscrew and the red wine was opened without incident. I was again able to fill my glasses without incident; I even saw some of the rich, Italian vintage 2004 Reserva Sangiovese starting to drip from the bottle and was able to wipe it away with my silk handkerchief before things got ugly. The only complaint I can speak of is that the lanyard wrinkled my Armani shirt. Oh, and the Spotlight’s color – the Spotlight’s green metal casing clashed horribly with the 911’s stately black interior and refined white exterior. I’ve been informed that Spotlights are available in a variety of colors, so my father (along with other 911 owners) will be able to select a Spotlight with a color that compliments their 911’s colors. [Editor's note: You'll have to excuse Andrew's ranting regarding 911 owners. He's just jealous. ]
A Bright Addition to Any Tool Set!
As a Porsche owner, the Spotlight helped me when I worked past sunset or in confined spaces. It fits in places most flashlights won’t, so you can always get light where you need it. The battery life is unbelievable, and will provide plenty of light between charging times. It is the smallest tool in my arsenal and it is easily in my list of the top five most useful! My verdict: A worthy investment for any Porsche enthusiast!
[Editor's note: The makers of Spotlight are not a sponsor of PorschePurist, nor were we paid for this review. I asked Andrew to try out the light and give me his thoughts from the perspective of a Porsche owner, the review above is his answer to that question.]
Today’s post is compliments of frequent contributor Andrew Granieri. Andrew is a graduate from Miami University with a degree in Technical & Scientific Communications and a minor in Entrepreneurship. He has a strong passion for cars and is working hard as a private contractor and freelance writer so he can continue to support his (pseudo) extravagant enthusiast lifestyle. He currently drives a worn but strong 1986 Porsche 944 that his future wife has come to appreciate and adore.
For anyone that’s ever participated in a DE (Driver’s Education) event or other High Performance Driving Event (HPDE) with your Porsche (or any car for that matter) you may or may not have been aware of the fact that your typical automotive insurance policy most likely has exclusions for these type of affairs. In fact, most auto insurance underwriters have very broad restriction on using your Porsche on a “surface used for racing”, “use at a racetrack”, “use in a high performance driving event”, etc. Hopefully, you are already aware of this and know the risk you take when you participate, or have not yet learned the hard way.
In the past, insurance for Driver’s Education programs, and other HPDEs, was difficult to obtain; if it could be had it was usually quite costly. Recently, the Porsche Club of America announced a new member benefit in the form of discounted HPDE Insurance through a partnership with Lockton Affinity.
This new program provides one-time insurance for each event at an agreed upon value. Obtaining a quote is as simple as visiting the Lockton web-site and entering an agreed upon value into the form provided. PCA members can deduct 10% from the quoted price. As an example, I looked at a policy with a face value of $50,000. According to the Lockton site, cost for this policy was $330 before the 10% member discount which translates to less than $300 for a PCA member.
Other Benefits of the HPDE Insurance Program:
Limited Exclusions – unlike other plans, we will cover you for structured HPDE events.
No Appraisal Required – you know how much your vehicle is worth, so we let you determine the value and save you the expense of an appraisal.
Coverage for Vehicle Modifications – you can choose to list and insure the modifications you’ve made to your vehicle.
Automatic Extension for HPDE Instructors – the policy follows your vehicle and is automatically extended when your HPDE Instructor is driving it. You can also add a 2nd driver for no additional charge.
Small Deductible – when you do have a claim, only a small 5% ($1,500 min.) deductible applies.
By no means is this an endorsement for Lockton, as I have yet to use their services, and if I ever do hope not to have to put them to the test (nor am I affiliated with them in any way). However, I will assume that the PCA has vetted them as an underwriter and they are a solid company to do business with.
What I’m most curious about, is what other companies offer this type of service? I’m constantly being asked for recommendations about HPDE Insurance and up until now I’ve only had one other company to provide people. I would like to create a resource center here on PorschePurist.com, so if you know of other carriers or underwriters who provide this type of coverage, please let me know by commenting below?
It’s hard to imagine, but winter has finally come to a close and it’s time for those of us in the colder climates to start thinking about putting our Porsches back on the road. Personally, I’m only about two weeks away from my first drive and it might be sooner if there’s enough rain (to wash the salt off) between now and then.
When I first started this site it was named 993C4S.com after my favorite air-cooled Porsche. As the site has grown and gone through a number of changes, so has the audience. The Spring Start-up procedure listed below, while specific to a 993, can apply to almost all Porsches (outside of a few specific points). What I want to know is what specific start-up procedures do you go through for your particular Porsche? Is there anything specific to a 944 spring start-up? How about a 356 (other than turning the crank) I would like to expand this section to include procedures for each individual model but need your input to do so. I look forward to hearing your thoughts.
Most people are familiar with the process for getting their Porsche ready for winter storage. However, in our excitement we might not remember that there are certain steps, for both safety and mechanical reasons, that we should follow when putting our Porsches back into service after any long-term storage.
Steps for a Safe Porsche Spring Start-up
Do a quick walk around: Visually inspect the car, the tires, the lights, the interior, etc. Make sure nothing went flat, no cracks developed in any visible gaskets or lights and make sure you had no unwanted visitors build a nest in your tailpipe or anywhere else for that matter. Look under the car for any signs of new leaks that may have developed during storage.
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Battery: Hopefully you had some sort of Battery Tender” on you car during its storage. Not only will this ensure a smooth spring start-up, it will greatly extend the life of your battery (especially in a 993). Remove your batter tender and test it to make sure it has a full charge.
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Tires: Even though you did a quick walk-around, go back over your tires. Check the air-pressure (I use this style Porsche Tire Gauge as it came with my car, but any accurate gauge will do). Chances are you over inflated them for winter storage. Now, while the tires are cold, is the best time to adjust inflation back to proper levels. Look for any cracks in the sidewall or treads. Check for flat spots.
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Lubrication: Remember, your Porsche has been sitting for a long time. This means the oil has mostly settled and those delicate moving parts might not have enough protection on them. Prior to starting the car simply remove the DME or fuse that controls the fuel pump, and turn the car over a few times. You want to do this long enough to bring the oil and fuel pressure up. Once the pressure is up, replace the DME or fuse and start the car.
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Fire it up: If your Porsche was properly stored for the winter and you follow the steps above, your car should start with no problems. Once running, turn on the lights and blinkers and do another quick check to make sure all the electric systems are running. Hop back out of the car for one-last walk around and make sure you don’t see any new leaks now that the car is running.
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Test Drive: Roll your Porsche forward, test the brakes and take it out for a 20 or 30 minute drive around your neighbor hood. Be sure to take it slow at the beginning and let your Porsche come up to full operating temperature. I try not to bring my Porsche over 4000 RPMs until it is at full operating temp. Be sure to take a cell-phone with you in the unlikely event of a problem.
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Final Check: Do one final walk around. Check again for any fluid leaks. Check all your fluid levels. If everything is good to go, you’re done. Take the car out and enjoy.
Does your spring start-up procedure differ from mine? Let me know what you do differently or what you would add to the list?
Over the years, I’ve read a lot of different tips on how to avoid a speeding ticket. Most of the items mentioned are common sense. However, like anything, even the most simple things can be forgotten or overlooked if we’re not reminded of them. While there is no sure fire way to avoid a ticket if you’re breaking your local speed limit, you can greatly reduce your exposure by employing some or all of the following pointers. Here’s my pick of the top seven tips, if used wisely, can help to avoid recreating the scene below.
Keep a low profile. Let’s forget about the fact that you’re driving a Porsche for a second, try to stay under the radar (pun intended). In other words, don’t draw attention to yourself by driving aggressively, flashing lights, multiple lane changes, etc. All it takes is one jealous driver in their beat up old Pinto to place a call to your local traffic control with a statement akin to, “Yeah, a black Porsche 911 just passed me at a little faster than the speed of sound. I think you might want to send someone out before this guy kills himself or someone else”. A call like that can ruin your day.
Drive with the “flow of traffic”. Cops are looking for that one car going significantly faster than the others. If the speed limit is 65 mph and you, and everyone else on the road, are driving 72 to 75 mph then you’re in the “flow of traffic”. Yes, technically you (and those around you) are still speeding and do risk a ticket. The problem for the police becomes who to pull over? By driving with the “flow” you’ve automatically improved your odds of not being singled out.
Follow, don’t lead. Usually if you drive with the “flow of traffic” no matter their speed you’ll be safe from a ticket. In the event the roads your driving aren’t that crowded find just one other car going faster than you and fall in behind them. This way, if there is a speed trap, hopefully your leader will get nailed and you’ll keep going albeit at a slower pace.
Be observant and look for brake lights. This should go without saying, but you would be surprised how often it is overlooked. By simply watching the traffic ½ mile to one (1) mile in front you have the ability to avoid any and all speed traps. Let’s face it, no one wants a ticket so the natural response to seeing a police car (on the side of the road or in a highway cutout) is to reduce speed by braking. When a whole group of cars suddenly brakes/slows at the same time you can be pretty sure that there is something of interest ahead of you. Adjust your speed accordingly. Even if it isn’t a speed trap, it may be some other obstruction or danger that requires a reduction in speed and your early observation will keep you out of harms way.
Avoid the left lane. Lest we forget our early driver’s education, the left lane is for passing only (that’s why they call it the passing lane). When you have to pass, use your blinker, move to the left and pass. Once you’re safely past the car in front of you move back into the middle or right lanes. Driving in this manner provides two benefits. The first is if a cop is coming from the opposite direction, they are more likely to be looking for speeders in the far left lane and have their radar pointed to that location. The second is you get some camouflage from any other speeders also on the road and driving in the left/passing lane. Let’s say you pass a cut-out with a radar trap set-up. The radar is going to bounce off the car in the left lane and return a signal on their speed, thus shielding you from a ticket (I know it’s a little thin, but it’s all about stacking the odds in your favor).
Buy a Radar Detector. If you live in a state where they are legal, by all means get one. A good radar detector will set you back a few hundred bucks, but so will a speeding ticket (not to mention the additional charges on your insurance, etc.). If you can, buy one of the newer radar detectors that also include detection and location information for red light and speed cameras.
Don’t speed. I know, this is a simple solution and not much fun, but for obvious reasons, it works.
These are the things that have worked for me over the years? Is there anything I should add to the list? Let me know what works for you?
Next week I’ll talk about what to do in the event you do get caught speeding. Just because you’re pulled over doesn’t mean you’ll be ticketed. A lot depends on how you look and act toward to officer pulling you over.
When most people think about winterizing their Porsche, it’s usually with the intent to store the car for some period of time and avoid driving it through cold and winter like weather. What about those of you who drive your cars through the winter? No, I’m not talking about all you lucky Porsche owners that live in temperate climates where the idea of winterizing your car is turning off the air-conditioning and making sure the windows still roll down. This is for those of you who either choose to drive your Porsche through the cold, rain, sleet, snow and salt for your perverted enjoyment and/or out of necessity as your daily driver.
Contrary to popular belief many Porsches, especially the 911 models, makes great winter drivers if prepared and outfitted properly. Due to the rear-engine design of the 911, a considerable amount of weight sits on or behind the rear wheels. Combine this significant grip creating weight with proper winter driving tires and your Porsche will handle as well, if not better, than most family sedans. If you’re fortunate enough to have an all-wheel drive model (no, I’m not talking about the Cayenne), then the grip is nothing short of legendary.
One of the most common misconceptions about driving your Porsche in the winter, especially over salty roads, is that it will harm your finish and reduce the life-span of your car. The fact is, Porsches are fully galvanized and have been since 1976. As a result, they are resistant to salt and rust and with a little preventative maintenance it’s easy to drive your Porsche in inclement weather and still experience years and years of rust free enjoyment. For those cars built prior to rust-proofing, you’re out of luck and for sake of preservation it’s best to put them away for winter storage using the proper techniques.
Tips for Preparing and Maintaining your Porsche for Winter Driving
Buy Snow Tires for Your Porsche: This is probably the most important aspect of preparing your Porsche for winter. All season tires are great if you live in a temperate climate. However, if you’re going to face any snow at all I strongly recommend you get a dedicated snow tire. In fact, the best solution is to get a second set of wheels and tires specifically for winter driving. The benefit here is you don’t damage your nice Porsche wheels from big winter potholes, hidden curbs and the stress of changing tires before and after each season. In addition, it makes storage and mounting much faster, easier and cheaper in the long run. I recommend shopping for winter tires at Tire Rack. They have a long list of Porsche approved winter tires, are competitively priced and provide the easy ability to buy a combination tire and wheel set.
Check Your Fluids: Do you drive an air-cooled (oil-cooled) Porsche? If so, you might consider changing your oil to a thinner viscosity for the duration of your cold weather driving. Low viscosity motor oils that pour easily at low temperatures typically have a “5W” or “10W” rating. There are also 15W and 20W grade motor oils. This page offers some good basic information on oil-viscosity. If you drive one of the newer water-pumpers (996, 986, 977, etc.) be sure to check your coolant level and condition. Consideration should be given to the quality and amount of coolant currently in the system. If possible, you might want to take the opportunity to have the coolant system flushed, cleaned and refilled with fresh anti-freeze. Lastly, don’t forget that all important windshield washer fluid. There’s nothing worse then getting caught behind an SUV or big truck kicking up that “salt-mist” and trying to scrape it off the windshield with dry wipers as you listen to your washer motor pump away against an empty reservoir.
Don’t neglect the body: Just because your Porsche is rust proofed, doesn’t mean there aren’t things you can do to help provide even better protection. A good thorough cleaning for your Porsche, prior to the winter weather, is a must. Be sure to put a good quality wax on the car before the bad weather starts. This added layer of protection will make it easier to rinse the accumulated dirt, dust and salt away during and after the winter weather. If you want to take things a step further, you can even put a coat of wax on your wheels for even more protection.
Avoid pressure washing: I know it’s tempting to use those high-pressure washers to clean the salt and sand off your car over the winter (especially the touch free drive through) but if possible, it’s best to avoid them. Why? Simple. Instead of rinsing the salt gently from your cars finish, those high-pressure systems can actually drive the salt deep into places you don’t want it and possibly accelerate or start the corrosion problem (not to mention it will more quickly strip off your nice pre-winter wax job). A better solution (if you have the time and facilities) is to simply rinse with a garden hose or use the low pressure setting on the do it yourself type of car wash.
Check tire pressures monthly:Tire pressure can change by one (1) psi for every 10 degree farenheit change in temperature (use manufacturer-recommended pressure). I live in the North East which experiences huge temperature swings and I’m constantly check my tire pressure. A good Porsche tire gauge with case is a must!
Besides preparing your Porsche for winter, what about actually driving it in the winter? Porsche offers a number of different winter driving schools and they look like a lot of fun. The tips below are mostly common sense, but we all know not every driver is blessed with this quality.
Winter Driving Tips Straight from the Porsche Camp4 Colorado Driving School
Cars respond more slowly on slippery surfaces. Always wait a moment after steering, braking, or accelerating to see how the car behaves before giving it more input.
Visibility is greatly reduced in bad weather. Make sure you can see clearly, and turn on your headlights.
Brake carefully and accelerate more gently.
Get the car pointed where you want to go before getting on the gas.
Be aware of reduced grip.
Take corners at lower speeds.
Brake sooner and longer than on dry surfaces.
Apex later.
Look for fresh snow – it provides more grip.
Avoid icy ruts.
Look farther ahead. So many of us keep our eyes glued to the back of the car in front of us. The car goes where you look, so get those eyes up and anticipate your next move!
Lastly, if you do happen to drive an all-wheel drive Porsche, be it a 911 or a Cayenne, please, please remember that all-wheel drive does not make you invincible. Yes, you may have slightly better grip and you might be able to accelerate faster, but you sure as hell can’t stop any faster. Keep this in mind when you’re on the highway driving a good 15 to 20mph faster than everyone else around you.
Do you drive your Porsche in winter conditions? If so, I would love to hear from you. Do you prepare your Porsche differently? Are there things I missed and can add to the the list?
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that are shaped to the tire and help to prevent flat spots without the need to over inflate.
if your garage is not climate controlled.
4. Tire Pressure: If you’re not going to put your car up on jack-stand (which I don’t recommend), the next best thing is to get a good amount of tire pressure in each tire. Make sure you don’t over inflate past the manufacturers recommend capacity, but you should go over the recommend driving pressure. In general, tires can lose 1 psi per month under normal conditions and an addition 1 psi per ever 10 degree (Fahrenheit) drop in temp. As a general rule of thumb, I put 50lbs of pressure in each tire. You have to remember to do this when the tires are cold or you won’t get an accurate reading and you may end up with flat spots. There is nothing worse then taking your Porsche out for the first time in the spring and having damaged tires due to flat spots from storage. Properly inflated tires will avoid this.
. I admit I was very skeptical when I initially saw the device; the whole thing is no larger than my big toe, it has only one LED – I’ve been accustomed to a trusty 7-LED flashlight. Even so, I gave this thing a one-week trial.*
Porsche owners who are concerned that this would hog their only 12V outlet can breathe a sigh of relief – there’s a Spotlight adaptor that allows you to recharge your Spotlight alongside your cell phone/ GPS/ radar detector! Very handy!
The Spotlight’s focused beam pierced the darkness my pitch-black basement. This shot was taken (sans flash 
) from 20 feet away. The Spotlight doesn’t try to spread light around because it’s too busy doing a great job throwing light precisely where you need it. 
” on you car during its storage. Not only will this ensure a smooth spring start-up, it will greatly extend the life of your battery (especially in a 993). Remove your batter tender and test it to make sure it has a full charge.
as it came with my car, but any accurate gauge will do). Chances are you over inflated them for winter storage. Now, while the tires are cold, is the best time to adjust inflation back to proper levels. Look for any cracks in the sidewall or treads. Check for flat spots.
. If you live in a state where they are legal, by all means get one. A good radar detector will set you back a few hundred bucks, but so will a speeding ticket (not to mention the additional charges on your insurance, etc.). If you can, buy one of the newer radar detectors that also include detection and location information for red light and speed cameras.
When most people think about winterizing their Porsche, it’s usually with the intent to 
